High above the Piave valley, at the foot of the Marmarole, there’s a wide plateau called the Parco della Memoria di Pian dei Buoi.
This guide covers what the park is, why the army fortified the plateau, the best walks, how to tackle the narrow road up and when to go.
What is the Parco della Memoria di Pian dei Buoi?
The name means “plain of the oxen”, as herds come here every summer to graze. Today the upper part of the plateau is the Parco della Memoria di Pian dei Buoi, a network of paths that follows old military tracks past gun positions, trenches, bunkers and caves from the First World War. Information panels explain what you’re looking at along the way.
Why was Pian dei Buoi fortified? The history behind the Parco della Memoria di Pian dei Buoi
Before the First World War, Cadore sat right on the border between Italy and Austria-Hungary. From 1909, the Italian army began fortifying the high ground around the Piave valley to stop any Austro-Hungarian advance heading south towards the plains.
Pian dei Buoi became part of the “Ridotto Cadorino”, or Cadore redoubt, a defensive ring that also included Monte Tudaio, Col Ciampon above Vigo and Monte Miaron near the Mauria pass.
Forte Col Vidal is the main “attraction”, built from 1909, partly cut into the rock, armed with heavy artillery and completed in 1914. To get guns and supplies up the mountain, military engineers built the “Strada del Genio”, named after the army’s engineering corps.
This is the same road you will drive today. Around the fort, soldiers dug trenches, observation posts, barracks, and machine-gun bunkers, including one still known locally as the “Bunker de le Mitralie”.
What can you see and do at Pian dei Buoi?
- Explore Forte Col Vidal: walk around the concrete batteries and cave sections of the fort, which overlooks the whole plateau
- Follow the trenches: stretches of dug-out trench and stone shelters still run between Col Cervera and Col Vidal
- Take in the views: from Col Vidal and Rifugio Ciareido you can see the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Antelao, the Pupo di Lozzo and Croda dei Toni
- Visit the Madonna del Ciarido chapel: Pope John Paul II stopped here to pray during one of his holidays in these mountains
- Watch for wildlife: ibex are often seen on the slopes of Monte Ciarido
- Eat at a rifugio: both Ciareido and Baion serve traditional Cadore dishes in summer
Which hiking trails and nature walks start at Pian dei Buoi?
Most walks begin at the Bivio dei Pellegrini (1,812 m), where the tarmac ends, and there’s a car park, an old barracks and a water fountain.
| Route | Time | Distance/climb | Level |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bivio dei Pellegrini to Rifugio Ciareido | About 20 minutes | Short climb on a track | Easy |
| Anello dei Colli (trail 33) to Col Vidal | 2 hours 15 minutes to 2 hours 30 minutes | Gentle climbs between the hills | Easy |
| Ciareido and Baion loop | About 3 hours | 8 km, +400 m | Easy, family-friendly |
| Walk up from Lozzo (trail 67) | 3 hours 30 minutes to 4 hours | About 950 m of climbing | Hard |
| Sentiero attrezzato Amalio Da Pra | Half a day | Cabled sections below Monte Ciarido | Experienced and equipped hikers only |
The Anello dei Colli leaves the Bivio dei Pellegrini, passes the ruins of the old Cervera shelter and reaches the Col Vidal forts, then loops back across the meadows.
If you’re walking with children, the Ciareido and Baion loop is the better choice. It’s mostly on gentle tracks, and the huts make good stopping points, so it suits a family holiday in the Dolomites.
Must-do checklist
- Download an offline map, as signal is patchy and some panels are hard to read
- Wear sturdy boots, since the ground around the trenches is uneven
- Bring a torch if you want to look into the cave sections of the fort
- Pack water, sun cream and a light jacket for the exposed meadows
- Leave any metal or wartime objects you find exactly where they are
How to get to the Parco della Memoria di Pian dei Buoi
Start in Lozzo di Cadore, on the SS51 bis between Calalzo and Auronzo. From the village, the Strada del Genio climbs 13 to 14 km, and more than 1,000 metres through 24 hairpin bends to the plateau. The road is paved but narrow, and longer cars may need a few manoeuvres on the tightest bends.
- Summer one-way system: usually from 1 July to 15 September, the road is uphill only from 9 am to 1 pm and downhill only from about 2 pm to 5 pm, but times change each year, so check the Comune di Lozzo di Cadore notice before you go
- By train: the nearest station is Calalzo-Pieve di Cadore, a short drive from Lozzo
- From Venice: allow around two hours by car
- From nearby villages: Lozzo is a short drive from Pieve di Cadore and Auronzo di Cadore
- By bike: the climb is a well-known mountain bike challenge, and it’s popular among people who come for cycling in the Dolomites
When is the best time to visit Pian dei Buoi?
| Season | What to expect |
|---|---|
| Late June to mid-September | Rifugio Ciareido open (usually 20 June to 20 September), summer road timetable and the busiest period |
| Late September to October | Fewer people, autumn colours and clear air, with fewer services open |
| Winter | The road is closed, so access is only for experienced ski tourers and snowshoers |
For the best mix of open huts and quieter paths, aim for early July or the first half of September. Start early in the day, too, since afternoon storms are common in high summer.
Book your stay in Cadore with D4U
The Parco della Memoria di Pian dei Buoi is one of those places that’s easy to miss and hard to forget. Give it a full day, walk the Anello dei Colli to Col Vidal, then finish with lunch at Ciareido looking across at the Tre Cime.
D4U has apartments, wellness apartments and rooms with breakfast across Cadore. Choose a base near Lago di Centro Cadore, and you can combine the plateau with lakeside days. Book your stay today!
